Thursday, June 2, 2011

From Baroque to Modern - Tuesday 5/31

Bright and early and in our best Sunday clothes, we headed to the Vatican for a long morning of touring. When we arrived, we wandered the piazza for a few minutes, admiring the impressive structure in the morning light. When we realized it was time to meet our tour, we hurried off through security and checked our bags. We scored a special tour with the Vatican, getting to see the true layers of the church.

We broke into two groups and walked around the layers of the roman necropolis beneath the basilica, imagining the city as much larger, and full of Roman’s dead, a place that would have been above ground in its day. Though Constantine defied tradition by using this necropolis as the church’s foundation, covering many graves of the dead they were to honor, he believed the honor of St. Peter himself, who is believed to be buried there. Constantine decided to fight the uproar, believing the man’s honor great enough to warrant change. When a much later pope was trying to expand the size of the basilica’s basement, where the popes are buried, excavations revealed the tops of the necropolis, and archaeology began. There is believed to be a much larger section of the necropolis, maybe stretched all the way down to the river’s edge, though we cannot say. Supports became difficult while moving too far west, and the excavations stopped, seen as they are today. I wish I could have taken pictures – the inscriptions, faded wall paintings, and ancient brick were all amazing. Only 200 a day get to visit this layer, and it was amazing to see!

When we moved up, there were several places to hold mass, as well as pope burials. Small sections where the layers of altars had been were shown to us, starting with Constantine’s red wall and “trophy,” and then to the following two altars (in the second layer, below ground now), and Bernini’s baroque altar above, which is what we see today.

After the wonderful tour, we moved up into the main basilica, taking many photographs of the statues (Pieta included), the altar, and numerous wonderful paintings and ceilings. When we were all satisfied, many left, though a few of us decided to climb the dome.

Paying five Euros, Dan, Nicole, Katie, Shannon, and I all climbed the many series of spiraled staircases, slanted over the dome, behind many people to make our way to the top. The hike was not nearly as bad as I expected, though I did document the journey in the small stairwells, the higher ones most would consider claustrophobic and steep. Arriving at the bottom of the dome, we stopped to look down below, and take pictures of the blue structure as well as the mosaics that surrounded the top. The floor below as well as high up paintings were really something better seen from above, and could only be appreciated from a closer observance. We hiked up even steeper stairwells, soon arriving at a ring that rounded the outside of the dome’s upper level, just below the top cupola. It was possibly the most beautiful view of Rome. We recognized many of the places we had been with excitement, and loitered with the crowds until around one.


On our way down, we stopped for snacks at a terrace halfway up the climb, and refilled our water bottles soon after. When we made it to the bottom, everyone had left the Basilica, and we left on foot for campus, not too far away.

When we arrived, we changed out of our nice dresses and into comfortable clothes, a small group of us heading out to Rome’s modern art gallery. Many of us were willing to see art made after the Renaissance. We wandered for a while, and though I’ll spare you all the notes of artists I wrote down, much of my favorites from the museum can be seen in my visit III entry. I wrote down a lot of people I want to check out later.

Though we intended to stay longer, our feet soon tired. Heading back to campus, we relaxed for a bit of time before heading to dinner, back to Pomodorino, where Jackie had taken us for pasta just last week. I was dying once more for Pesto, though the special pasta menu did not have it this time. Settling once more for pizza, it was so filling I couldn’t even finish!

After dinner, many headed over to a local campus of another college, where Jackie’s friend was to meet us. As a high school teacher, she urged ten of her excitable male students to come along, wanting to meet American girls at a local bar. However, a few of us weren’t as excited about meeting over eager teenage boys, and took a series of night busses home. With Ryoko voiceless and myself tired, we got home in little time without much trouble.

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