Saturday, June 4, 2011

Fascism and Church Parks - Wednesday 6/1

Wednesday, our agenda was a bit different than all our other days. However, this was our last full day, and we were very excited about this! We set out in the morning and headed to the end of the metro line, well outside the outskirts of the city. Unlike the ancient ruins and baroque churches we had been seeing, we were faced with a rigid business district, planned in the fascist era.

Entering the Museo della Civilta Romana, we headed into a series of rooms that contained copies of things, mostly plastico models of what ancient ruins would have looked like in their time, or copies of sculptural pieces and statues. I took many photos of the models, though mostly for stock art purposes. What was most interesting was the giant model of ancient Rome, which took up the center of a very large room. We were able to point out many of the places we had been to in the past days. After signing the guestbook, it was on to lunch.

A drizzle settled over us as we gathered for a quick lunch under a modern portico, two cafes for our choosing, and a gelato place we took advantage of. Resting for about an hour, we then walked back to the subway station, not before stopping by one of Mussolini’s buildings, meant to be a modernist throwback all in one contradiction. Empty, the building is surrounded by high fencing. Plans on the fence showed us they were planning on turning it into some sort of apartment complex, though entry at the time was forbidden.

Taking the metro back to Pirene, we got off and took a walking tour of the Aventine. Climbing up the hill through a series of colorful, flower-filled streets, we came upon a square and a walled-in private residence. There was a line outside the door, and as we discovered, a look through the peephole in the wood was an amazing view. It was hard to photograph, though when Jordan and I looked through, we were both shocked to see a wolf-like animal at the end of the row, standing in front of the distant St. Peter’s dome. It reminded us of the mythological mother of Rome, the she-wolf, and we showed our photographs to many others.

Wandering off in another direction once everyone had a chance to see through the door, we found our way into the Basilica of S. Sabina. Before entering though, Melissa and I spotted a priest having just arrived, rollerblades in hand. He was eyeing our group so I could not sneak a shot, but we were wondering how on earth he rollerblades on cobblestone? Or how on earth he rollerblades on cobblestone AND in robes?

After standing outside a short time, we walked in. Unlike the other churches, we were not shocked with the awe of detail and gold. This old church was a simple basilica plan, with many windows, though lacking the gold and paintings. It was mostly bare, with a focus on the windows of the clerestory. Most of the detail resided in the main apse. It was refreshing to see a church with a different kind of atmosphere.

Leaving the church, we moved into a nearby park, where we sat peacefully on the benches all around for a writing exercise. We were surrounded by others, tourists, young couples, and even a large group of nuns. Once I finished writing, I left my shady bench to sit on top of the park’s wall, looking out over the Aventine and out onto the city, high above many rooflines. Sandy and I dangled our feet over the edge and lounged in the sun until forced to leave. I could have stayed all day!

On our way home, we walked down the hill, and passed the temples to Hercules Victor and Portunus, which is what remains of the Forum Boarium. After a long day, many were eager to go home, and several more had to use the restroom. We hurried to the Theater of Marcellus, where we listened to the one of the last presentations.

Coming home, we were happy to rest before dinner. A small group of us decided to take the metro towards the Trevi Fountain, eating at a small restaurant at a side street before going down to marvel at the fountain at night. Sadly, I forgot my camera – but my meal was a wonderful plate of tortellini with a cream sauce on top. After we had spent our time at the still-crowded fountain, we walked back to the piazza and caught a series of busses home.

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