Walking down the center of a huge driveway and courtyard, the building was much larger than I expected, even after seeing sketches. We were faced with neoclassical structures and large copper doors that had greened with years, and once inside, the grand structure just got even more incredible. The central nave was sided with statue after statue of marble saints, each incredible with their moving drapery and appropriate props. The ceiling held borders of gold and painted wood with various designs and emblems. The high altar, only allowed for the Pope to speak at, towered towards the ceiling, painted blue and gold. The central apse behind the nave showed off a traditional (but large) golden mosaic with many religious figures. To the right side of the nave sat the organ, and on the left, a pedimental structure with a few oil paintings.
After some time photographing the amazing ceilings and statues, I spent some time sketching one of the many saints. Classical statues make great references when I draw on my own, but most of my enjoyable visits consist of sketching statues, especially in museums.
After leaving St. John, we headed over to San Clemente, in a small section of Rome we had not been to. Not far from the Colosseum, the church was shaded by quaint buildings and green trees. This was the site that carried our true meaning of layering – beginning with a church dating from around the seventeenth century, the deepest layer being from the first century. Quietly filtering in, we observed the top layer first, a small gem itself with few faded paintings, a small altar, and rows of pews.
We quickly gathered to go downstairs, diving into the original fourth century church which San Clemente was built upon. This church had provided an important foundation, and we discovered burials as well as old frescos in its various rooms and isles.
Beneath that was a third century church, one of the earliest establishments of Christianity that had served as the later church’s foundation. Dark and dank, there was little to see, but odd nooks and crannies provided us with an interesting exploration.
Beneath that was a first century Roman house, believed to have been from a man who may have been involved in the religion’s beginning, when it was still mostly underground. Deep under and cold, the empty Roman rooms provided everyone with a creepy chill, and yet it was fantastic to see such a well-preserved house. Water still runs under it, probably from pipes coming from old Roman springs. I was not allowed to take pictures anywhere, though I doubt anything in the depths of San Clemente’s historical basements would have provided me with much.
After this point, we were free, and we headed back on the metro to campus. After changing and relaxing, we met in the courtyard to converse with an internet friend of Dan’s, a translator and poet who discussed languages and writing with us for a time before we headed to the Piazza Del Popolo for dinner. We loitered in the square for a bit, listening to musicians, watching people photograph friends on the fountain’s lion corner sculptures, and looking as amused children played and danced over the cobblestones.
When dinner time arrived, we promptly went into the restaurant after a short walk, sitting at three separate tables. While expensive, many ordered elaborate multi-course meals and dessert. We had been in the restaurant from 7:30 to 11:30, and had been falling asleep ready to leave long before. Though dinner was good, I must say I have found cheaper better food down in Trastevere. At any rate, I took pictures of my pesto, and my dessert – more tiramisu but this time with coffee ice cream and whipped cream on top!
Walking back to campus was almost exhausting, though none of us felt like waiting for the night bus, which as of late, has been a long wait. Home was not far, and we came home to write a bit before sleeping once more. A busy day indeed!
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