*Envoi - Rome, the Finale

When looking back upon my time at Rome, I’m not even sure where to begin, or what to say. I feel as if anything I could write would just be a humble jumble of repetitive praise for everything I’ve done, and nostalgic admiration of my favorite moments. Though as a reflection, I suppose that sounds about right.

If a family member was asking me the traditional question, “what was your favorite part,” I don’t know if I could answer. Almost everything was wonderful in it’s own way. Ranking things has never been my strong suit anyways. If I were to give a pile of my favorite sites, I’d probably say the climb to the high cupola of St. Peter’s and its view, sitting on the sunny ledge looking out from the Aventine, and the open ruins of the Palatine left for me to climb and wander in. But my classic favorites include the Pantheon and the Colosseum, hanging out on the Spanish Steps, and loitering by the Trevi Fountain. I found new places I loved to be too, down by the markets outside Castel Sant’ Angelo, or in the winding streets of Trastevere.

Really, I could go on listing these activities and places forever. But sometimes it was the cultural feelings that won me out too. I was not alone in my confidence of navigation, slowly learning the bus routes and stop names. I consider myself better at the subway, but either way, was comfortable in knowing where to go in the underground tunnels. Even walking with a map helped my sense of direction, and by experiencing different people, restaurants, shops, and more, I was able to feel more rooted than the average vacationer.

When we were in the airport, boarding in ten minutes, I waited in line for a quick lunch. A family in front of me is turned away from the counter, told to pay first before ordering. They wonder how this is done, looking confused, and I chuckle a little. Gelato down the street, back by St. Johns, had been the same way. After being somewhere for two weeks, you begin to pick up on the little differences in the culture, and even though I had only been in the city two weeks and hold no true seniority, I couldn’t help the little smirk that was there.

Though we had been mentioning it over various dinners, it struck me most as we hugged long goodbyes out on the street before leaving on the bus for the airport – we had all really bonded. Yes, everyone had their close moments back in the spring, during our trials of the midterm and after school dinners, but over the course of two weeks, there was no one I felt uncomfortable with. Everyone’s company seemed shared and enjoyed, and I think I can take comfort in that everyone else felt the same. Group picture requests, dinner with various people, and solo explorations with other classmates can attest to this. The amount of private jokes, laughter, and quotes are all recorded in our minds and blogs. I smile to remember the little things like these that happened each day.

On the airplane, I would have given anything to make the flight go faster. After letting my laptop die and reading over 100 pages of my most recent novel, there were still four hours to go. But with some delight, I had taken out a magazine bought in the airport just before leaving. European magazines are my favorites, and I don’t find them often. With some pleasant surprise, upon reading an article about a designer for Lady Gaga and his lists of ten favorite things (foods, clothes, etc.), I read his second favorite place to be Piazza Campidoglio. With Jackie and Emily fast asleep on either side of me, I felt a smile break loose – remembering the many lunches there full of pizza and fresh mozzarella cheese.

It was almost unreal to come home. To be in JFK waiting in line at immigration, groaning to go home and be done. To see my parents felt almost odd as well – was it really over? While I ate Caesar salad and mac n’ cheese in the car en route home, two delicious things I hadn’t eaten in two weeks, I discussed several random bits of my tours and activities with my parents. They asked me if the trip had gone quickly. I said, although the events last week seemed ages ago, it certainly went fast while I was in it. When I left for Rome back in May, I didn’t think coming home would indeed come so fast.

Crypts, Circuses, and Expensive Dinners - Saturday 6/4

Waking in denial, no one wanted to admit that Saturday was our last day in Rome. However, our morning activities proved exciting for the group we’d gone out with, heading towards a small church off the Piazza Barberini. Though the normal church was beautiful, as pictured below, the real treasure was the crypt. Morbidly beautiful, we were all awed and felt almost guilty for loving such a dark arrangement. Though we were not allowed to take photos, many come up on Google if you’re interested in seeing spine circles and boney chandeliers. (Most of what I have to say can be seen in my fifth and last visit entry.)

After our visit, we loitered around in some of the shops near the Trevi Fountain, not far from the church. Not many things were open yet, but we found a charming leather store, many of us dying to purchase some authentic Italian leather from the sweet old man in the store, who made everything present, his tools and shop in the very back of the store. I watched him engrave a few wallets for Shannon and Alissa, putting his tools together. I longed to take pictures, but didn’t know how he’d feel – so a shot of the storefront will suffice. I myself bought a small multi-colored purse, for the larger ones were not cheap.

Heading back to St. Johns, we grabbed lunch and rested for a bit, waiting for the rest of our lot to wake up. Once people were gathered, we met with some others in the lounge and set out for the Circus Maximus, a site we had meant to see long ago but hadn’t had the chance.

Arriving in the barren park, it was hot, sunny, and sweltering, but we walked along its Roman lengths, posing and playing, even racing partway around. Though it seemed a long way to go for a field, it was a very awesome old field.

Not before long, we departed, separating from a few others who needed to visit one last church. Heading back to St. Johns, we picked up a few shoppers before going down to Trastevere to shop. Unfortunately, the late busses left us with little time, but I succeeded in finding cute earrings while Shannon bought more jewelry for her and her friends, and Alissa and Katie found dresses for our farewell dinner that night. On the way back to the bus, as if meant to be, I spotted the globe-patterned purse I had been lusting after, only second to the Colosseum ring I had bought the day before. Bargaining it off a purse seller on the bridge, my two main purchase goals finally succeeded.

On behalf of my suggestion, farewell dinner took place at Tre Scalini, where I had eaten dinner years ago with my parents and friend Katie on spring break. For our last dinner, I braved heels for the first time in two weeks, managing the bus, and cobblestones. Ordering delicious meals, I had a fantastic Roman fettuccini Alfredo, and probably the best tiramisu ever. Though our bill was much higher than expected, we all seemed quite satisfied at the end (maybe minus Nicole and her run-ins with the waiter).

After dinner when the rain began to sprinkle, several headed off to get last minute drinks at the bar, while a small group walked back to school. Glad to be cooled off in the rain, I broke out the flip-flops and walked back to campus. On our way back, taking Dan’s suggestion, we walked over to St. Peter’s. Though the square was closed for the night, the emptiness was refreshing and peaceful from the bustling sight of it at day. All lit up, lights reflecting on the damp stone, it was the perfect, lovely note to end the trip on.

Team Nicholas Cage and my Favorite Church - Friday 6/3

Friday was a day of crowds and travel. Waking early, we made our way to the Vatican Museums – not of course without taking the wrong bus and walking on the way. When we arrived at the plaza, our group was to present once more on site. Jordy, Jordan, Alissa and I appointed ourselves Team Nicholas Cage, and enthusiastically presented in the crowded piazza.

Shortly after we were finished, we headed past the portico and around to the museum, witnessing the long lines in horror. Being a group tour, we were thankfully let right in, and funneled into the museum after the short bathroom break. We headed out to a courtyard before beginning our individual visits, convening to witness the giant pinecone. Many thought it to have sat atop the Pantheon at one time, though it is far too small to cap the dome.

After this, we were let free to roam the museum. Me and a few others wandered towards the ancient galleries, snapping shots of states and such. For now, the floors were relatively clear. But as soon as we moved into the smaller galleries, through the map room and towards the Sistine chapel, it got much more crowded. We lost several members of our small group along the way, and soon enough, were doing our best to rush and weave to get to the chapel. Forcing us to go through many galleries on the way, it was hard to appreciate much when trying to just get to the chapel. Seeing the School of Athens was nostalgic, though I could only take a few crappy shots before being hustled away in fear of losing my friends.

Everyone couldn’t wait to get out of the chapel by the time we were in it, and we hurried out – though now our group dwindled to me, Alissa, and Melissa. Accidentally coming out the wrong exit, we found ourselves above the line to climb the dome. Packed with people, I was glad my climb had been much less packed! Deciding to leave, we set off for St. Johns for some time, wondering if others would show up.

When we returned, many had been there waiting, and several others still weren’t back yet. We had been planning to go to several places after the Vatican, but found ourselves weary. When Alissa tired, I left with Melissa to head off to the Jesuit church, gathering my wits to take a journey to my favorite church, as well as purchase my much-wanted Colosseum ring along the way. Though the hike ended up being much longer thanks to blocked roads and construction, we climbed hills in the sweltering sun around the forums until I climbed the Capitoline – feeling my ring by now was much deserved.

I purchased it as fast as I could before heading down, and locating the church, not all too far from where we were. Entering the dark, elaborate church, I remembered why I loved it so much. Melissa needed another solo visit entry for the class, so I was glad to lead her here. We discovered something I had not noticed in my previous visit, which was that this church housed several skeleton hands. Who’s bones they were I did not know, but there were two visible, and a possible third hidden away in a golden box upon a shelf we could not see inside. It was a little creepy, but either way, we were awed at the golden detail of the church. I was glad to be back!

Once we left, the threatening storm clouds seemed scary, but we made it to the bus in time and headed back before meeting for dinner. Since it was Nicole’s birthday, we met in the common room before heading back to a pizza joint we had been to before, where we had eaten with Jackie’s artist friend. We were disappointed to find they were out of many items on the menu, but I stuck with the traditional pizza.

After dinner, after much confusing communication and not working phones, we waited around the Campo di Fiori for Isabel, who was there for her last night in Rome. Many others gathered for drinks, and she finally arrived with brothers in tow. We hugged and chatted for a bit, though I had been tired for hours, and sought to go home with Guerry. It was nice to see Isabel, even if only for a short time! After that, Guerry and I headed away from the square and towards the bus, making it home successfully after just one transfer. Blogging, showering, and heading to bed was my list of things to achieve quickly.

*Visit V - The Capuchin Crypt

Saturday morning was my last chance for my last solo visit. I headed out with a small group to Barberini, where there was a small church with a crypt in the lower level.

I had been excited for an experience like this nearly the whole trip. When I previously visited both France and Italy, my parents had refused to do any crypt or catacomb trip. The creepy factor was not for them, though now that I had my chance, I was going to go for it.

Though Guerry had gone the previous day and went with us then, she hadn’t told us anything, nor were pictures allowed. My imagination pictured something a bit like Indiana Jones, dipping into a tunnel in the floor, and weaving through narrow halls and rooms of piled and arranged bones. And piles and arranged bones I got indeed, though I was surprised to be confronted with it all nearly right after we walked in.

After surrendering my camera batteries for no-photo insurance and making a small donation, me and the others walked right into a series of rooms with various arranged bones. It was truly a small hall, consisting of five or six rooms. Each one had various altars and ceiling decoration with different structures, as well as propped up skeletons, some standing and others lying in a niche. Chandeliers of arm bones hung down, and spine bones lined the curves of the ceiling. It seemed almost something to feel guilty for liking, and yet no matter how morbid, I found it so beautiful.

Skulls with pelvic bones adorning them as butterflies looked down upon us as we went from room to room, only to end up in the last room, one of the most intriguing ones. A circle of spines surrounded a skeleton pinned to the very top of the ceiling, holding what appeared to be a bone-like scythe in its small hand. Looking down over the room, it almost appeared to be ready to pounce on any intruder, threatening as death is.

I could have stood longer in the last room, but a coming German family soon approached, and we all left to give them room. Strolling slowly back through the line of rooms, I began to wonder how old all the propped up monks were, some still with rotting skin upon them, skeletons still hidden. When was this crypt created? How many people had been used in the decoration? Countless skulls were there, especially in the first two rooms. To count seemed impossible.

Before going up to the main floor of the church, many of us purchased post cards, since we could not snap photos. I bought one standard view, but also one of a lit up chandelier, curved with connected bones and yellow light. I found myself wanting one, and even though it seemed so morbid, it was as I said, gorgeous. Katie seemed to agree, and for the sake of our interest, I argued people do make chandeliers out of bones today still, and it is socially acceptable and not creepy. It’s a popular style in the Adirondacks, mostly with antlers. Animal bones may seem to be quite a jump from human bones, the shapes made interesting the décor.

In the dark church above, we did not spend much time. Flowers adorned the pews, and I sensed a coming wedding. Light spilled in through one side of the clerestory, illuminating a few people sitting quietly in the pews. The rest of the church’s details were lost in its dark corners and after wandering for a few minutes with a camera in hand, it was time to exit. I definitely thought the crypt was by far the most exciting part.

*Note - pictures are from google!