The Roads of Rome

*Envoi - Rome, the Finale

2011-06-05T22:07:00.004-04:00

When looking back upon my time at Rome, I’m not even sure where to begin, or what to say. I feel as if anything I could write would just be a humble jumble of repetitive praise for everything I’ve done, and nostalgic admiration of my favorite moments. Though as a reflection, I suppose that sounds about right.

If a family member was asking me the traditional question, “what was your favorite part,” I don’t know if I could answer. Almost everything was wonderful in it’s own way. Ranking things has never been my strong suit anyways. If I were to give a pile of my favorite sites, I’d probably say the climb to the high cupola of St. Peter’s and its view, sitting on the sunny ledge looking out from the Aventine, and the open ruins of the Palatine left for me to climb and wander in. But my classic favorites include the Pantheon and the Colosseum, hanging out on the Spanish Steps, and loitering by the Trevi Fountain. I found new places I loved to be too, down by the markets outside Castel Sant’ Angelo, or in the winding streets of Trastevere.

Really, I could go on listing these activities and places forever. But sometimes it was the cultural feelings that won me out too. I was not alone in my confidence of navigation, slowly learning the bus routes and stop names. I consider myself better at the subway, but either way, was comfortable in knowing where to go in the underground tunnels. Even walking with a map helped my sense of direction, and by experiencing different people, restaurants, shops, and more, I was able to feel more rooted than the average vacationer.

When we were in the airport, boarding in ten minutes, I waited in line for a quick lunch. A family in front of me is turned away from the counter, told to pay first before ordering. They wonder how this is done, looking confused, and I chuckle a little. Gelato down the street, back by St. Johns, had been the same way. After being somewhere for two weeks, you begin to pick up on the little differences in the culture, and even though I had only been in the city two weeks and hold no true seniority, I couldn’t help the little smirk that was there.

Though we had been mentioning it over various dinners, it struck me most as we hugged long goodbyes out on the street before leaving on the bus for the airport – we had all really bonded. Yes, everyone had their close moments back in the spring, during our trials of the midterm and after school dinners, but over the course of two weeks, there was no one I felt uncomfortable with. Everyone’s company seemed shared and enjoyed, and I think I can take comfort in that everyone else felt the same. Group picture requests, dinner with various people, and solo explorations with other classmates can attest to this. The amount of private jokes, laughter, and quotes are all recorded in our minds and blogs. I smile to remember the little things like these that happened each day.

On the airplane, I would have given anything to make the flight go faster. After letting my laptop die and reading over 100 pages of my most recent novel, there were still four hours to go. But with some delight, I had taken out a magazine bought in the airport just before leaving. European magazines are my favorites, and I don’t find them often. With some pleasant surprise, upon reading an article about a designer for Lady Gaga and his lists of ten favorite things (foods, clothes, etc.), I read his second favorite place to be Piazza Campidoglio. With Jackie and Emily fast asleep on either side of me, I felt a smile break loose – remembering the many lunches there full of pizza and fresh mozzarella cheese.

It was almost unreal to come home. To be in JFK waiting in line at immigration, groaning to go home and be done. To see my parents felt almost odd as well – was it really over? While I ate Caesar salad and mac n’ cheese in the car en route home, two delicious things I hadn’t eaten in two weeks, I discussed several random bits of my tours and activities with my parents. They asked me if the trip had gone quickly. I said, although the events last week seemed ages ago, it certainly went fast while I was in it. When I left for Rome back in May, I didn’t think coming home would indeed come so fast.

Crypts, Circuses, and Expensive Dinners - Saturday 6/4

2011-06-05T18:15:00.004-04:00

Waking in denial, no one wanted to admit that Saturday was our last day in Rome. However, our morning activities proved exciting for the group we’d gone out with, heading towards a small church off the Piazza Barberini. Though the normal church was beautiful, as pictured below, the real treasure was the crypt. Morbidly beautiful, we were all awed and felt almost guilty for loving such a dark arrangement. Though we were not allowed to take photos, many come up on Google if you’re interested in seeing spine circles and boney chandeliers. (Most of what I have to say can be seen in my fifth and last visit entry.)

After our visit, we loitered around in some of the shops near the Trevi Fountain, not far from the church. Not many things were open yet, but we found a charming leather store, many of us dying to purchase some authentic Italian leather from the sweet old man in the store, who made everything present, his tools and shop in the very back of the store. I watched him engrave a few wallets for Shannon and Alissa, putting his tools together. I longed to take pictures, but didn’t know how he’d feel – so a shot of the storefront will suffice. I myself bought a small multi-colored purse, for the larger ones were not cheap.

Heading back to St. Johns, we grabbed lunch and rested for a bit, waiting for the rest of our lot to wake up. Once people were gathered, we met with some others in the lounge and set out for the Circus Maximus, a site we had meant to see long ago but hadn’t had the chance.

Arriving in the barren park, it was hot, sunny, and sweltering, but we walked along its Roman lengths, posing and playing, even racing partway around. Though it seemed a long way to go for a field, it was a very awesome old field.

Not before long, we departed, separating from a few others who needed to visit one last church. Heading back to St. Johns, we picked up a few shoppers before going down to Trastevere to shop. Unfortunately, the late busses left us with little time, but I succeeded in finding cute earrings while Shannon bought more jewelry for her and her friends, and Alissa and Katie found dresses for our farewell dinner that night. On the way back to the bus, as if meant to be, I spotted the globe-patterned purse I had been lusting after, only second to the Colosseum ring I had bought the day before. Bargaining it off a purse seller on the bridge, my two main purchase goals finally succeeded.

On behalf of my suggestion, farewell dinner took place at Tre Scalini, where I had eaten dinner years ago with my parents and friend Katie on spring break. For our last dinner, I braved heels for the first time in two weeks, managing the bus, and cobblestones. Ordering delicious meals, I had a fantastic Roman fettuccini Alfredo, and probably the best tiramisu ever. Though our bill was much higher than expected, we all seemed quite satisfied at the end (maybe minus Nicole and her run-ins with the waiter).

After dinner when the rain began to sprinkle, several headed off to get last minute drinks at the bar, while a small group walked back to school. Glad to be cooled off in the rain, I broke out the flip-flops and walked back to campus. On our way back, taking Dan’s suggestion, we walked over to St. Peter’s. Though the square was closed for the night, the emptiness was refreshing and peaceful from the bustling sight of it at day. All lit up, lights reflecting on the damp stone, it was the perfect, lovely note to end the trip on.

Team Nicholas Cage and my Favorite Church - Friday 6/3

2011-06-05T17:08:00.006-04:00

Friday was a day of crowds and travel. Waking early, we made our way to the Vatican Museums – not of course without taking the wrong bus and walking on the way. When we arrived at the plaza, our group was to present once more on site. Jordy, Jordan, Alissa and I appointed ourselves Team Nicholas Cage, and enthusiastically presented in the crowded piazza.

Shortly after we were finished, we headed past the portico and around to the museum, witnessing the long lines in horror. Being a group tour, we were thankfully let right in, and funneled into the museum after the short bathroom break. We headed out to a courtyard before beginning our individual visits, convening to witness the giant pinecone. Many thought it to have sat atop the Pantheon at one time, though it is far too small to cap the dome.

After this, we were let free to roam the museum. Me and a few others wandered towards the ancient galleries, snapping shots of states and such. For now, the floors were relatively clear. But as soon as we moved into the smaller galleries, through the map room and towards the Sistine chapel, it got much more crowded. We lost several members of our small group along the way, and soon enough, were doing our best to rush and weave to get to the chapel. Forcing us to go through many galleries on the way, it was hard to appreciate much when trying to just get to the chapel. Seeing the School of Athens was nostalgic, though I could only take a few crappy shots before being hustled away in fear of losing my friends.

Everyone couldn’t wait to get out of the chapel by the time we were in it, and we hurried out – though now our group dwindled to me, Alissa, and Melissa. Accidentally coming out the wrong exit, we found ourselves above the line to climb the dome. Packed with people, I was glad my climb had been much less packed! Deciding to leave, we set off for St. Johns for some time, wondering if others would show up.

When we returned, many had been there waiting, and several others still weren’t back yet. We had been planning to go to several places after the Vatican, but found ourselves weary. When Alissa tired, I left with Melissa to head off to the Jesuit church, gathering my wits to take a journey to my favorite church, as well as purchase my much-wanted Colosseum ring along the way. Though the hike ended up being much longer thanks to blocked roads and construction, we climbed hills in the sweltering sun around the forums until I climbed the Capitoline – feeling my ring by now was much deserved.

I purchased it as fast as I could before heading down, and locating the church, not all too far from where we were. Entering the dark, elaborate church, I remembered why I loved it so much. Melissa needed another solo visit entry for the class, so I was glad to lead her here. We discovered something I had not noticed in my previous visit, which was that this church housed several skeleton hands. Who’s bones they were I did not know, but there were two visible, and a possible third hidden away in a golden box upon a shelf we could not see inside. It was a little creepy, but either way, we were awed at the golden detail of the church. I was glad to be back!

Once we left, the threatening storm clouds seemed scary, but we made it to the bus in time and headed back before meeting for dinner. Since it was Nicole’s birthday, we met in the common room before heading back to a pizza joint we had been to before, where we had eaten with Jackie’s artist friend. We were disappointed to find they were out of many items on the menu, but I stuck with the traditional pizza.

After dinner, after much confusing communication and not working phones, we waited around the Campo di Fiori for Isabel, who was there for her last night in Rome. Many others gathered for drinks, and she finally arrived with brothers in tow. We hugged and chatted for a bit, though I had been tired for hours, and sought to go home with Guerry. It was nice to see Isabel, even if only for a short time! After that, Guerry and I headed away from the square and towards the bus, making it home successfully after just one transfer. Blogging, showering, and heading to bed was my list of things to achieve quickly.

*Visit V - The Capuchin Crypt

2011-06-05T16:52:00.002-04:00

Saturday morning was my last chance for my last solo visit. I headed out with a small group to Barberini, where there was a small church with a crypt in the lower level.

I had been excited for an experience like this nearly the whole trip. When I previously visited both France and Italy, my parents had refused to do any crypt or catacomb trip. The creepy factor was not for them, though now that I had my chance, I was going to go for it.

Though Guerry had gone the previous day and went with us then, she hadn’t told us anything, nor were pictures allowed. My imagination pictured something a bit like Indiana Jones, dipping into a tunnel in the floor, and weaving through narrow halls and rooms of piled and arranged bones. And piles and arranged bones I got indeed, though I was surprised to be confronted with it all nearly right after we walked in.

After surrendering my camera batteries for no-photo insurance and making a small donation, me and the others walked right into a series of rooms with various arranged bones. It was truly a small hall, consisting of five or six rooms. Each one had various altars and ceiling decoration with different structures, as well as propped up skeletons, some standing and others lying in a niche. Chandeliers of arm bones hung down, and spine bones lined the curves of the ceiling. It seemed almost something to feel guilty for liking, and yet no matter how morbid, I found it so beautiful.

Skulls with pelvic bones adorning them as butterflies looked down upon us as we went from room to room, only to end up in the last room, one of the most intriguing ones. A circle of spines surrounded a skeleton pinned to the very top of the ceiling, holding what appeared to be a bone-like scythe in its small hand. Looking down over the room, it almost appeared to be ready to pounce on any intruder, threatening as death is.

I could have stood longer in the last room, but a coming German family soon approached, and we all left to give them room. Strolling slowly back through the line of rooms, I began to wonder how old all the propped up monks were, some still with rotting skin upon them, skeletons still hidden. When was this crypt created? How many people had been used in the decoration? Countless skulls were there, especially in the first two rooms. To count seemed impossible.

Before going up to the main floor of the church, many of us purchased post cards, since we could not snap photos. I bought one standard view, but also one of a lit up chandelier, curved with connected bones and yellow light. I found myself wanting one, and even though it seemed so morbid, it was as I said, gorgeous. Katie seemed to agree, and for the sake of our interest, I argued people do make chandeliers out of bones today still, and it is socially acceptable and not creepy. It’s a popular style in the Adirondacks, mostly with antlers. Animal bones may seem to be quite a jump from human bones, the shapes made interesting the décor.

In the dark church above, we did not spend much time. Flowers adorned the pews, and I sensed a coming wedding. Light spilled in through one side of the clerestory, illuminating a few people sitting quietly in the pews. The rest of the church’s details were lost in its dark corners and after wandering for a few minutes with a camera in hand, it was time to exit. I definitely thought the crypt was by far the most exciting part.

*Note - pictures are from google!

Rome's Republic Day - Thursday 6/2

2011-06-04T07:53:00.003-04:00

Thursday was the beginning of our last few free afternoons. Setting out with a light at the end of our tunnel, we headed out in the morning earlier than usual, going back to the Trevi Fountain. Bright in the morning light, we took some touristy pictures before settling to listen to the presentation. The best moment by far was a slight pause in the speeches, where Erica proudly proclaimed, “I am a mermaid!” Obviously thinking of herself as a fantastical mer-creature in the shallow fountain, while not even having meant to be heard by others, the entire group laughed. It was quite a fun moment!

When the presentation was finished, many of us settled down by the edge to throw coins over our shoulders, one representing the wish to return to Rome, two to marry, and three to divorce. Chuckling at our last option, many of us threw in a coin in the hopes of returning.

With that, we were set free. A group of us found our way over to Vittorio Manuele II in hopes of seeing the end of the military parade come by. However, the crowds had already built, and we were a bit late. While other tried to get closer to the road, Maria and I wandered off to head back to campus, doing a bit of shopping on the way. Once we returned home, both of us separated ways to catch up on blogging and photos for a bit.

When the afternoon rolled around, Shannon came by and the two of us set out for the grocery store, and a little more of shopping. However when we got caught in the rain, we decided it was time to head home.

Not too long later, we met up for dinner. Many of us were tired, and decided to search for a nearby place. On a side street, we found a small family run restaurant, and though it was slightly more expensive than our cheap Trastevere pizzas, everyone loved their meal. Since Thursday is apparently gnocchi night in Rome, I ordered a plate of gnocchi with tomato sauce and fresh mozzarella.

Fascism and Church Parks - Wednesday 6/1

2011-06-04T07:13:00.004-04:00

Wednesday, our agenda was a bit different than all our other days. However, this was our last full day, and we were very excited about this! We set out in the morning and headed to the end of the metro line, well outside the outskirts of the city. Unlike the ancient ruins and baroque churches we had been seeing, we were faced with a rigid business district, planned in the fascist era.

Entering the Museo della Civilta Romana, we headed into a series of rooms that contained copies of things, mostly plastico models of what ancient ruins would have looked like in their time, or copies of sculptural pieces and statues. I took many photos of the models, though mostly for stock art purposes. What was most interesting was the giant model of ancient Rome, which took up the center of a very large room. We were able to point out many of the places we had been to in the past days. After signing the guestbook, it was on to lunch.

A drizzle settled over us as we gathered for a quick lunch under a modern portico, two cafes for our choosing, and a gelato place we took advantage of. Resting for about an hour, we then walked back to the subway station, not before stopping by one of Mussolini’s buildings, meant to be a modernist throwback all in one contradiction. Empty, the building is surrounded by high fencing. Plans on the fence showed us they were planning on turning it into some sort of apartment complex, though entry at the time was forbidden.

Taking the metro back to Pirene, we got off and took a walking tour of the Aventine. Climbing up the hill through a series of colorful, flower-filled streets, we came upon a square and a walled-in private residence. There was a line outside the door, and as we discovered, a look through the peephole in the wood was an amazing view. It was hard to photograph, though when Jordan and I looked through, we were both shocked to see a wolf-like animal at the end of the row, standing in front of the distant St. Peter’s dome. It reminded us of the mythological mother of Rome, the she-wolf, and we showed our photographs to many others.

Wandering off in another direction once everyone had a chance to see through the door, we found our way into the Basilica of S. Sabina. Before entering though, Melissa and I spotted a priest having just arrived, rollerblades in hand. He was eyeing our group so I could not sneak a shot, but we were wondering how on earth he rollerblades on cobblestone? Or how on earth he rollerblades on cobblestone AND in robes?

After standing outside a short time, we walked in. Unlike the other churches, we were not shocked with the awe of detail and gold. This old church was a simple basilica plan, with many windows, though lacking the gold and paintings. It was mostly bare, with a focus on the windows of the clerestory. Most of the detail resided in the main apse. It was refreshing to see a church with a different kind of atmosphere.

Leaving the church, we moved into a nearby park, where we sat peacefully on the benches all around for a writing exercise. We were surrounded by others, tourists, young couples, and even a large group of nuns. Once I finished writing, I left my shady bench to sit on top of the park’s wall, looking out over the Aventine and out onto the city, high above many rooflines. Sandy and I dangled our feet over the edge and lounged in the sun until forced to leave. I could have stayed all day!

On our way home, we walked down the hill, and passed the temples to Hercules Victor and Portunus, which is what remains of the Forum Boarium. After a long day, many were eager to go home, and several more had to use the restroom. We hurried to the Theater of Marcellus, where we listened to the one of the last presentations.

Coming home, we were happy to rest before dinner. A small group of us decided to take the metro towards the Trevi Fountain, eating at a small restaurant at a side street before going down to marvel at the fountain at night. Sadly, I forgot my camera – but my meal was a wonderful plate of tortellini with a cream sauce on top. After we had spent our time at the still-crowded fountain, we walked back to the piazza and caught a series of busses home.

*Space and Place - The Vatican Museums

2011-06-03T19:00:00.001-04:00

Last time we did space and place, I know I discussed being corralled and guided through the forum. However, the Forum Romanum was nothing in comparison to the Vatican Museums.

I have no way of describing it better than what Dan said – both the best and worst museum in the world. There is no doubt the art there is wonderful, and there is much to see of it! Going through it all in a day is simply impossible, even when trying to breeze through it. Though the Vatican no doubt had a questionable fashion of collecting their pieces, it was great to see many of them, even if what we saw was just the tip of the iceberg.

The beginning was relatively enjoyable – we took our time, photographed statues, and felt in awe. We giggled at the fig leaves and loitered around busts. It was comfortable. But when the time came to see the chapel, it was farther away, and much more crowded.

We were herded like sheep through the contemporary section, through the Raphael rooms, and even many of the halls leading up to these places. Though I didn’t care much about the contemporary religious paintings, I was only able to nostalgically awe at The School of Athens for a few moments before trailing after the small group I was with, fearing losing my friends in the crowd.

The push and pull of tourists and the amounts of people were simply a turn off. Though I am not claustrophobic at all, it took me half a minute into the Sistine Chapel before I couldn’t wait to get out again. In front of me in line was a woman and a stroller, and I’m not very sure that was a good idea either. Countless idiots were taking photos with flash in all parts of the museum, and even in the chapel, and being there watching them kind of made me angry. There was really no way to stop them, but it’s a frustrating matter.

I suppose there is no real way to fix this problem. Thousands of people come to see the chapel and museums a day. If they were to limit the crowd even more, revenue would go down, and less people would get in to tour and marvel. Either way, there are wins and there are loses. It just seems a shame that masses of people should make the viewing of art such a distracting, annoying thing, when as an artist, I love going to see these things. My experience with the Vatican Museums was much better in March those years ago, when summer season had not yet kicked in, and the crowds were much less than today.

Despite the annoying visitors and all the pushing, I got many good photographs of many beautiful statues, for there will always be a place in my heart for classical style marbles. The ceilings continue to awe me, and I love the renaissance classics – I just wished that in a perfect world, I wouldn’t be pushed through the galleries.

*Visit IV - Piazza del Popolo

2011-06-03T12:08:00.004-04:00

Though I started out thinking I would write on the Campo di Fiori – a place many of us have been several times, I changed my mind. The Piazza del Popolo, though I have only had a chance to visit twice, is still one of my favorite piazzas.

I suppose part of that is nostalgic. When I was last in Rome, we did not stay too far from the piazza. Every morning when we would go to our various places to tour, we would drive past the piazza. And every morning, without fail, our driver would point it out. It dawned on us that in English, this meant “Piazza of the People,” and though we looked out onto the space daily, we didn’t actually believe he was serious. Here we were snickering in the backseat, thinking, “oh the piazza of the people, isn’t that cute”. We didn’t believe it was real until later, a tour guide mentioned it. “Oh that’s a real thing!” was the reaction on all our faces.

After all those times driving by it, I don’t believe we ever actually stopped there. Our time in piazzas anywhere was usually a lunch hour, stopping to snack under an umbrella before moving on to our next part of the agenda.

This time, I was thankful to wander around and snap pictures, as well as loiter before dinner and talk to people. Unlike other smaller piazzas, the sense of open space in Piazza del Popolo is refreshing. Maybe it was the time of day, I do not know if it is busier in the afternoon, but either way the peace was nice.

Watching fellow classmates pose with one of the four lions around the obelisk, I snapped shots of the giant monument with a beautiful sky in the background. The golden hour settled onto the piazza, and we listened to a nearby musician and watched others wander as we did.

Before leaving for dinner, a cluster of us watched as nearby a saxophone player belted out a few tunes, little paying attention to him until a young child and his mother came by. She stopped the stroller and gave the boy a coin, intending for him to go put it in the man’s pile. However, the boy was enthralled by the music, and watched the man for a long time before almost tripping over to the case, and placing the coin on top. What was cute to watch was how he didn’t understand that the coins were not for playing with – he went back and forth between putting it down, and then picking it up again.

After going back and forth several times, with the mother laughing on the sidelines, the man finished his song and knelt down, letting the child stumble over to him and place the coin in his very hand. We all laughed and clapped, and may of us felt we wanted to contribute ourselves.

By the time this little show ended, the golden sun was setting over the churches at the far end of the piazza, and dinnertime was approaching. It lit up a few statues and facades, and many of us hurried across the road with our cameras before setting off for food. Though Campo di Fiori has some wonderful food and shops to offer, the atmosphere of the Piazza del Popolo is much more calming and refreshing, especially at that nice hour at the end of a day.

From Baroque to Modern - Tuesday 5/31

2011-06-02T08:13:00.005-04:00

Bright and early and in our best Sunday clothes, we headed to the Vatican for a long morning of touring. When we arrived, we wandered the piazza for a few minutes, admiring the impressive structure in the morning light. When we realized it was time to meet our tour, we hurried off through security and checked our bags. We scored a special tour with the Vatican, getting to see the true layers of the church.

We broke into two groups and walked around the layers of the roman necropolis beneath the basilica, imagining the city as much larger, and full of Roman’s dead, a place that would have been above ground in its day. Though Constantine defied tradition by using this necropolis as the church’s foundation, covering many graves of the dead they were to honor, he believed the honor of St. Peter himself, who is believed to be buried there. Constantine decided to fight the uproar, believing the man’s honor great enough to warrant change. When a much later pope was trying to expand the size of the basilica’s basement, where the popes are buried, excavations revealed the tops of the necropolis, and archaeology began. There is believed to be a much larger section of the necropolis, maybe stretched all the way down to the river’s edge, though we cannot say. Supports became difficult while moving too far west, and the excavations stopped, seen as they are today. I wish I could have taken pictures – the inscriptions, faded wall paintings, and ancient brick were all amazing. Only 200 a day get to visit this layer, and it was amazing to see!

When we moved up, there were several places to hold mass, as well as pope burials. Small sections where the layers of altars had been were shown to us, starting with Constantine’s red wall and “trophy,” and then to the following two altars (in the second layer, below ground now), and Bernini’s baroque altar above, which is what we see today.

After the wonderful tour, we moved up into the main basilica, taking many photographs of the statues (Pieta included), the altar, and numerous wonderful paintings and ceilings. When we were all satisfied, many left, though a few of us decided to climb the dome.

Paying five Euros, Dan, Nicole, Katie, Shannon, and I all climbed the many series of spiraled staircases, slanted over the dome, behind many people to make our way to the top. The hike was not nearly as bad as I expected, though I did document the journey in the small stairwells, the higher ones most would consider claustrophobic and steep. Arriving at the bottom of the dome, we stopped to look down below, and take pictures of the blue structure as well as the mosaics that surrounded the top. The floor below as well as high up paintings were really something better seen from above, and could only be appreciated from a closer observance. We hiked up even steeper stairwells, soon arriving at a ring that rounded the outside of the dome’s upper level, just below the top cupola. It was possibly the most beautiful view of Rome. We recognized many of the places we had been with excitement, and loitered with the crowds until around one.

On our way down, we stopped for snacks at a terrace halfway up the climb, and refilled our water bottles soon after. When we made it to the bottom, everyone had left the Basilica, and we left on foot for campus, not too far away.

When we arrived, we changed out of our nice dresses and into comfortable clothes, a small group of us heading out to Rome’s modern art gallery. Many of us were willing to see art made after the Renaissance. We wandered for a while, and though I’ll spare you all the notes of artists I wrote down, much of my favorites from the museum can be seen in my visit III entry. I wrote down a lot of people I want to check out later.

Though we intended to stay longer, our feet soon tired. Heading back to campus, we relaxed for a bit of time before heading to dinner, back to Pomodorino, where Jackie had taken us for pasta just last week. I was dying once more for Pesto, though the special pasta menu did not have it this time. Settling once more for pizza, it was so filling I couldn’t even finish!

After dinner, many headed over to a local campus of another college, where Jackie’s friend was to meet us. As a high school teacher, she urged ten of her excitable male students to come along, wanting to meet American girls at a local bar. However, a few of us weren’t as excited about meeting over eager teenage boys, and took a series of night busses home. With Ryoko voiceless and myself tired, we got home in little time without much trouble.

Cats, Ghettos, and the Priest's Shopping Mall - Monday 5/30

2011-06-02T05:54:00.006-04:00

Meeting at our normal time, we headed over to Piazza Navona, a site I remember well. Surrounded by restaurants and cafes, the old circus was nearly empty when we arrived. Bright in the morning sun, I finally got to see the Fountain of Four Rivers without the scaffolding that was here years ago. And much to Alissa’s delight, we discovered Dan Brown was indeed wrong – the fountain isn’t THAT deep. There was a group presentation, and we all stood around listening to them before going off on our own to write our Voyeur exercise. Writing about various people in the square, we were essentially being graded to people watch. However, I blame Dan for any stalker tendencies – Shannon and I took sneaky photographs of the people we were writing about (we happened to be writing about the same couple). Though I must admit I do love taking candids, I usually don’t observe my subjects and write about them for extended periods of time…

We then took a visit to a gorgeous church (which I also forget the name of), with more gold ceilings I could awe at. It was only a short stay, but I enjoyed it nonetheless, for it housed three wonderful Caravaggio paintings.

It was then we headed over to the Pantheon, one of my favorite places. My wide-angle lens was only made for this dome! Many of us took photographs and loitered in the murmur-filled space, trying to get ourselves with the coffered ceiling and oculus in the background, lying on the floor to take shots. The last picture here is proof the temple is house to a few important tombs, this one including Raphael!

While heading towards Campo di Fiori for lunch, a popular spot amongst us, we took Dan’s tour of popular sites the Italians frequented, such as the street of the cat, and one of the many “messenger” statues, where people used to leave notes to one another. We passed two, places one might miss if you didn’t know what it was - appearing to be just another statue.

Along one long road, we passed many shops with reliquaries and priests’ garb, and even fancy clergy outfits. Melissa and I joked it was the Priest’s shopping mall, and we saw many of them wandering the streets, coming out of stores. To be honest, many of the golden and glass pieces were gorgeous!

We also stopped at the Republican Ruins, a place in the middle of a square below the road where four temples remain. It is one of the well-known cat sanctuaries of the city, home to many strays. We spent a few minutes wandering around the sanctuary, and it was like playing where’s Waldo with cats.

Shortly we came to our lunch spot. Me and a few others headed to a deli recommended by Dan, where we bought fresh meat and cheese (I of course just ate the cheese), and the mozzarella was delicious! My meal was accompanied by some 4 cheese flavored cheese puffs, Cheetos’ Italian cousin. Me, Alissa, and Shannon munched on our food in the French piazza, just outside the embassy where we could sit and rest our feet.

Feeling refreshed after lunch, we headed over to the Jewish Ghettos, where we had two tours in line. Sadly I don’t have many shots from either, because no pictures were allowed inside the museum or synagogue, but I can tell you all about the goings on! Our first tour brought us through the museum and both synagogues, one small, and one the largest in Rome. Though we soon grew tired, and many started nodding off during the tour (myself included, her voice was so soothing!), it was interesting to see that both places of worship were still active. I finally woke up when we got into the large synagogue, a place I was itching to take photographs of. Unusual for it’s high decoration, my eyes were at awe. The ceiling, a rectangle shaped dome like structure, had trees at the bottom, with fish like scales leading to the top, a rainbow from top to bottom, red to purple. Ceilings were covered in a cobalt blue with golden stars, to remind everyone of their equality under god. It was truly a beautiful space.

Shortly after, we got up on tired feet and walked through what used to be the ghetto. Only one original building remains, but we were shown where the fountains were, the edges of the space, and what crowded life would have been like. It’s surprising to learn some of the houses were in the Tiber river – though I am still not quite sure how that would have worked.

Later that day, with Dan’s suggestion, we headed off to the opposite end of the city for Rome’s best pizza. Though we had to wait to be seated, it was well worth the wait. We split into two groups, and ordered one of the greatest meals of the trip. It was in a corner, intimidating to tourists maybe, and there was little English to be spoken to waiters, but it was truly full of locals and worth the wait. The meal was overall cheap and delicious, and though we didn’t set out until late, our stomachs were soon satisfied.

*Momentary Blindness - A few Minutes on the Aventine

2011-06-01T17:53:00.001-04:00

Our group enters the orange grove, on top of the Aventine hill, crunching gravel sounding at our feet. Leaves rustle in the breeze, and the cool temperature beneath the trees feels refreshing. A trickling fountain is not far off, the sound halting occasionally as people take a drink. Tourists stroll and murmur to each other, various languages floating in the air, sauntering over the crunching stones. The birds begin to chatter more, chirping up in the sanctuary of high branches. The wind moved the trees above in another rustle; the shade above turning to sun, filling closed eyelids with light and warming my back. Pages of my journal flop in the breeze, the lacey hem of my dress tickling my legs as it moves.

A mother walks by, rolling a baby in a stroller, the child happily singing and cooing, and the sound of the wheels fading as they continue on. Other birds join the treetop chorus, gulls and crows mixing with a passing helicopter, and traffic somewhere distant below the hill. A horn honks as the birds chatter, and though civilization is not that far off, it feels as if it is. The park is peaceful and haven-like. Sitting here on this sun-spotted bench is like a sigh of relief, a breath of fresh air.

A motorcycle roars below, and it is almost a pull back to reality. Almost. It feels like the waking moments of a dream, when you fight the morning noises to hold on to the images in your mind. The ring of bells and a gust of rushing wind pushes through the park, the grit of dust flying up past our feet, and when the short burst calms, peace settles once more.

*Voyeur - A Couple's Morning Coffee

2011-06-01T17:49:00.003-04:00

Sitting at Caffé Domiziano is a man sitting alone, looking to be in his thirties, with cropped brown hair. He wears black ray ban glasses and typically preppy attire, a pink polo with a popped color, cropped kakis, and white shoes. He smokes as he leans back in his chair, looking relaxed, occasionally drinking coffee from a small mug. After a minute or so, a woman comes and sits next to him, and I realize he had not been alone in the first place, spotting her coffee cup in front of her that had been there. She wears a blue shirt and shorts with simple flats, a haircut almost as short as his. They lean out of the way for tourists to pass them, the only pair sitting at the café, spending a quiet time together.

The only other nearby people are a group of cops and military men, dressed in black and blue and loitering around, chatting and occasionally watching over the square. The woman picks up a pen and begins to write, as we are, and he looks about and sits back as she works. He watches the tourists shooting photos in front of him, and they linger together.

It seems as if they are starting out their morning at a café, maybe before setting out to tour or walk. Finishing breakfast or morning coffee, it is possible they reside at a nearby hotel, and they definitely look to be tourists.

Sitting at the Piazza Navona, it is a perfect place to people watch. The scene is constantly changing, with restaurants all around, and tourists circling the fountain taking pictures.

A Day with the Dead - Tomb Wanderings on Sunday 5/29

2011-05-31T18:15:00.005-04:00

Leaving at nine once more this morning, the group headed down to the metro, taking the train all the way to the end of the city. Probably the farthest we’ve gone yet, we were faced with one of the old gates to the Aurelian wall when we walked out. Across the street was a huge pyramid, built for a man named Gaius Cestius during Rome’s Egyptian craze (and this was mostly a show of power).

After talking about the pyramid in the already baking morning sun, we headed into a large cemetery for another group presentation. Also known as the city’s cat sanctuary, we watched the felines roam around as we viewed a few of the site’s most important tombs, Keats and Shelly amongst them, as well as travel writer Caroline Carson, whom we read in class.

We a bit of time dedicated to picture taking, and then soon left the quiet sanctuary to travel past some graffiti covered walls into a lesser-known area of Rome, which used to be a giant landfill for the citizens of the old city. Here, pottery was excavated in abundant qualities. After a brisk walk around the hill, we were done for the day.

A group of us set back on the metro for home, dropping our things and getting a quick lunch nearby out bus stop. Soon, we headed out to Castel Sant’ Angelo, to spend two hours in the maze-like mausoleum. For more on our journey there, see my entry below, but here are a few of my favorite parts of that part of today (including more amazing views):

On tired feet, we journeyed through the markets outside Castel Sant’ Angelo, purchasing various pieces of jewelry and clothes, and bartering and bargaining our way through. I stayed the longest with Melissa and Shannon, many others wandering home earlier. At the end of our long day, the three of us walked home, with only one small bout of getting lost. Once again, a wrong turn will throw you, but my handy map came to the rescue (we weren’t that far off).

After editing more photos and blogging some, I was off to a quiet dinner with Dan, Alissa, Shannon, and Katie - eating a few blocks away at an affordable restaurant. Finally able to find a pink sauce, I was delighted to eat spinach and cheese Ravioli in a pink tomato and sour cream sauce, lapping up the rest of it with some bread afterwards. We headed for some good gelato before going back to campus, and though I was disappointed they had no cinnamon left for me to try, I had a delicious mix of coffee and chocolate (and forgot to snap a picture).

*Visit III - Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna

2011-05-31T12:30:00.003-04:00

After days of seeing ancient and medieval art, many of us were itching to see something a little closer to recent. A small group of us decided to head up to the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna, or the national modern art gallery. Not far from the Borghese gallery, we stopped at the Piazza del Popolo before walking up a shaded road towards the museum. Well signed, we found it easily, and were able to get in for a cheaper price after claiming art students, showing ID, and paying to see only the collection. Since the exhibition was more, and the second floor seemed to be shut off, we managed most of the museum we paid for, and it was well worth it.

Wandering around the first room, we came across many Italian modern artists we did not know. I found a fond spot for Piero Manzoni, who did a few pieces I liked of large fingerprints, as well as a few typography pieces.

Another artist I was fond of was Gastone Novelli, who Shannon and I agreed did some cool work. What I like seeing is artists who work with mediums you don’t see every day, and mixed media. Novelli seems fond of textures, and though I wasn’t sure what he was using other than acrylics, his piece “I Vaggi di Brek,” of a brick wall with a sidewalk in front of it, was appropriately textures. Sadly I don’t have any snapshots of these two artists I favored, for this was before I started sneaking pictures (and we were still close to the front desk).

Moving on to other minimalist modern arts, I loved the dark works of Alberto Burri, who had one half of a large room. I snapped a shot of two of his works that I favored, “Nero” and “Ferro SP.” The melding of materials and dark colors really caught my eye.

It wasn’t long until we stumbled upon some more works however, which were famous. Strolling away from the white, stark rooms of modern art, we found ourselves in a more traditional scape, with wooden floors and gold-framed paintings. I was surprised to see famous artists in front of me, namely Degas, Cezanne, Courbet, Van Gogh, and even one of Monet’s lily pad works. I was unaware and did not consider that Italy would have any holdings of French artists. Later as well I stumbled upon a familiar work by Mondrian, and Dada artist Duchamp’s Fountain, as well as some of his other work, lined along a wall.

Though famous artists are always great to see, what really kept my attention were unique paintings and some of the neo-classical type marble sculptures. In a small series of room in the back, two of my favorite pieces were Guilio Aristide Sartorio’s La Gorgone e gli Eroi painting, as well as Raffaello Romanelli’s Iris Florentina sculpture.

There were so many other artists I wrote down to look up works for. There were many photographs I could not take, and no time to draw, but I favored other pieces by painter Salvatore Postigione, sculptor Emilio Franceshi, and artists in the Venetian painting room like Guglielmo Ciardi.

Overall, the trip was well worth our small amount of money. Spreading out our time periods past art of the middle ages and renaissance, our stroll through the almost empty modern museum was a success.

Steps and Street Performances - Saturday 5/28

2011-05-30T13:18:00.005-04:00

Saturday started out early, Alissa and I stumbling out of bed to head over to the Villa Borghese at 9. Though it was the first opening, we were already there with a line of people waiting to check bags and flood in. The museum, strict of its rules as I remembered, did not let us bring in bags or cameras. After we started, many of us wandered to the top floor to work our way down. As Dan and I agreed, the rooms were overwhelming, presenting us with a wealth of paintings and decoration and gold. Oils of portraits, classical themes, and Christian stories plastered the walls and every inch of the ceiling. After exploring most of the rooms, I sat to sketch for a bit, choosing a small part of a ceiling piece in the first room while I waited for the first floor to open for entrance.

What I found most interesting on the painting floor was the way ceilings portrayed a fake sense of space and depth. The first room had a classical marble roof, painted of course, with paired men holding it up on many sides of the room. Allan and I both agreed it seemed a little homoerotic, but hey it was Rome – it’s pretty appropriate.

After a few minutes, I nearly finished a quick rendering of one of these pairs muscley pairs, and moved on with a few people downstairs. Bernini’s sculptures quickly sucked in my attention, becoming the main focus of most rooms. Though I had little time to sketch, I chose to write on the Rape of Prosperina, as seen in the entry below. Alissa and I wandered out into the gardens, which I had not seen last time, and we wrote before meeting up with the group to purchase gift shop items and leave for our next agenda.

Though our stomachs all rumbled, we first met with a guide at the Villa Medici, a young girl who led us around the French-Academy owned seven acres of amazing property once owned by the Medici. Housing many works by students as well as Medici originals, we saw a famous garden, their house with tapestries, and a small villa with lovely painting inside.

After this, we ate a quick lunch in the expensive cafeteria before setting out towards the nearby Spanish Steps. We briefly explored the church at the top of the steps, three of our class members giving their presentation by the church, on the steps on our way down, and at the crowded fountain on the bottom. We did not loiter long before moving on.

We walked around what had been the northern Campus Martius, seeing another church from the outside, and walking past Augustus’ Mausoleum, now closed to the public and looking quite in disrepair. Entering a fascist modern building, we discovered the housing of the Ara Pacis, which had many pieces still well preserved. Though moved from its original site, we were awed as we wandered around Agustus’ peaceful altar, allowed to get close and walk inside. The designs were amazing, especially the florals, and though we were very tired, many seemed to favor the building.

After a long day, we headed back to campus for a much needed rest before dinner. Hopping on the bus, we only moved a few feet before an unexpected event occurred – a long bike-a-thon that blocked off our route! After a while of standing, we hopped off the bus to walk, only to notice the stream of bikers slowly trickling to a stop. We hurried to get back on the bus before it left without us. My life is full of timing fail, alas. So once again, a group of us wandered to Trastevere, only to catch an interesting site in the square. Before sitting to satisfy our stomachs, we watched an amusing street performance consisting of fire juggling and unicycling, as well as holding men together without seats!

It was after this we discovered a few cute shops, bookmarking them in our minds for later. When we settled on a place for dinner, we were easily accommodated and quickly ordered various pizza and pasta dishes. I settled for pizza once more, having not had it in a few days.

On our way back, the bus seemed to neve arrive. Anxious to get back and tired of waiting, we settled for walking home once more, this time along the river. Once along Castel St. Angelo, we witnessed a married couple taking bridal photos, and still open market places, several of us making little purchases while others wandered home. It wasn’t long before we were back at St. Johns, many new shops in our minds for later in the week, and bags happily in hand.

The Church Visits - Friday 5/27

2011-05-30T11:25:00.004-04:00

Friday was a definite church day. Set with appropriate dress, we went to the far other end of the city, across the river and diagonal from campus to St. John Lateran. This huge church was once a site important to pilgrims in the middle ages, serving as one of the early Christian sites.

Walking down the center of a huge driveway and courtyard, the building was much larger than I expected, even after seeing sketches. We were faced with neoclassical structures and large copper doors that had greened with years, and once inside, the grand structure just got even more incredible. The central nave was sided with statue after statue of marble saints, each incredible with their moving drapery and appropriate props. The ceiling held borders of gold and painted wood with various designs and emblems. The high altar, only allowed for the Pope to speak at, towered towards the ceiling, painted blue and gold. The central apse behind the nave showed off a traditional (but large) golden mosaic with many religious figures. To the right side of the nave sat the organ, and on the left, a pedimental structure with a few oil paintings.

After some time photographing the amazing ceilings and statues, I spent some time sketching one of the many saints. Classical statues make great references when I draw on my own, but most of my enjoyable visits consist of sketching statues, especially in museums.

After leaving St. John, we headed over to San Clemente, in a small section of Rome we had not been to. Not far from the Colosseum, the church was shaded by quaint buildings and green trees. This was the site that carried our true meaning of layering – beginning with a church dating from around the seventeenth century, the deepest layer being from the first century. Quietly filtering in, we observed the top layer first, a small gem itself with few faded paintings, a small altar, and rows of pews.

We quickly gathered to go downstairs, diving into the original fourth century church which San Clemente was built upon. This church had provided an important foundation, and we discovered burials as well as old frescos in its various rooms and isles.

Beneath that was a third century church, one of the earliest establishments of Christianity that had served as the later church’s foundation. Dark and dank, there was little to see, but odd nooks and crannies provided us with an interesting exploration.

Beneath that was a first century Roman house, believed to have been from a man who may have been involved in the religion’s beginning, when it was still mostly underground. Deep under and cold, the empty Roman rooms provided everyone with a creepy chill, and yet it was fantastic to see such a well-preserved house. Water still runs under it, probably from pipes coming from old Roman springs. I was not allowed to take pictures anywhere, though I doubt anything in the depths of San Clemente’s historical basements would have provided me with much.

After this point, we were free, and we headed back on the metro to campus. After changing and relaxing, we met in the courtyard to converse with an internet friend of Dan’s, a translator and poet who discussed languages and writing with us for a time before we headed to the Piazza Del Popolo for dinner. We loitered in the square for a bit, listening to musicians, watching people photograph friends on the fountain’s lion corner sculptures, and looking as amused children played and danced over the cobblestones.

When dinner time arrived, we promptly went into the restaurant after a short walk, sitting at three separate tables. While expensive, many ordered elaborate multi-course meals and dessert. We had been in the restaurant from 7:30 to 11:30, and had been falling asleep ready to leave long before. Though dinner was good, I must say I have found cheaper better food down in Trastevere. At any rate, I took pictures of my pesto, and my dessert – more tiramisu but this time with coffee ice cream and whipped cream on top!

Walking back to campus was almost exhausting, though none of us felt like waiting for the night bus, which as of late, has been a long wait. Home was not far, and we came home to write a bit before sleeping once more. A busy day indeed!

*Visit II - Castel Sant' Angelo

2011-05-29T12:39:00.004-04:00

After a morning of touring with the afternoon off, many of us headed off to Castel Sant’ Angelo, in ancient terms, Hadrian’s Mausoleum. Luckily, the wait in the heat of the sun was not long, and we were ushered in, paying a steep price of 8.50 euros to enter. We gathered ourselves and headed in, hit with cold castle air as we headed up a dark swirl. I began to wonder if I’d paid to be wandering around in a dark tunnel, only greeted occasionally by rocky indents, a few holey arches, and some unlabeled pottery.

However, I was glad to discover I was wrong. Over the course of the next two hours, we would wander in and out of many museum rooms full of artwork (mostly medieval and later), a series of maze-like courtyards, and long circular paths that rounded the building.

Coming upon a series of connected outdoor spaces, we photographed a few large statues, took a break for our feet, and even stumbled upon some old war weaponry. We found a large catapult, piles of marble balls, something we suspected made in the middle ages when the building became an active fortress. Later we stumbled upon a round turret on our way out, where we peered through the gate to see cannons and other war storage in a dark room illuminated by our camera flash. The armory displayed in the museum was by far my favorite artifact room – I favored the plumed helmets and the shimmering plates, even the elaborately decorated pistols and spearheads.

Amongst other objects, gold of course caught my eye, and passing the various Christian paintings inside, I came upon a few golden reliquaries, and some abstract objects I photographed below which I do not know the purpose of. These were by far some of my favorite pieces in the museum sections.

Besides golden artifacts, one statue in particular piqued my interest. In its interesting placement across from a series of paintings of Mary, this slinky skeleton of death stood cloaked and blindfolded. I snuck a quick picture, favoring it over the other sculptures and paintings in the mausoleum.

Though the art was all amazing, my eyes were ever upwards as usual, watching the ceilings I was not allowed to photograph, and those I was. Even with decorated insides, the covered walkways did not lack in interest, offering painted ceilings and overlooking a far view of Rome. As we walked this small circumference, there were many opportunities to overlook the river, as well as other sites we have seen and will see soon, such as the wedding cake and St. Peter’s.

After losing a couple of people and finding them once more, we took a break for our tired feet at the café before heading out. Nearing three, many of us were ready to wander and shop in the shade of the markets close by before heading back to campus. Enamored with its size and many rooms, the sentiment was that it was worth the money, navigating through the maze-like structure to see its history in artwork and its amazing views of the city.

*Ekphrasis - Bernini's Rape of Prosperina

2011-05-28T17:57:00.004-04:00

Bernini’s work is what astounded me most in the Borghese Galleries today. Last time I was there, I spent most of my time sketching Apollo and Daphne in a close by room. This time however, I chose a different work of his to focus on. Placed centrally in an elaborate room of the ground floor, is Hades and Prosperina, twisting up towards a painted ceiling. He lifts her from the ground with the ease that comes with a well muscled body, hands digging into her skin. The pads of his fingers create indents in her body, the effect rather fleshy and realistically rendered. Prosperina’s legs kick up in protest helplessly as she pushes Hades’ head back with a palm, twisting away from his body and reaching out for help. Her hair flies as she looks behind her, Cerberus’ open mouths lapping at her feet. Marble tears protrude from her cheek, and her distressed expression is clear. However Hades’ face seems almost pleased. His expression is an odd one of happiness, eyes upon her with a lecherous open-mouthed grin. He pulls her roughly towards him with greedy hands, body in a twisted lunge during an excited struggle. Behind them sits three-headed Cerberus, its mouths howling in victory for his master, Hades. In contrast to the underworld god’s and Prosperina’s smooth skin, the fur of the dog is carved with a fine texture, hair curling up the necks of the dogs. The attention to detail and realism is truly astounding.

Photographs from google - sadly, my camera was not allowed in the museum. : (

Size Matters - Large Structures on Thursday 5/26

2011-05-28T11:54:00.007-04:00

Before I start with the day’s activities, I’m sharing some pictures of the awesome metro trains here. The tag artists on the street may not know what they’re doing, but whoever is working down here sure does!

Thursday morning, we started out with one of my favorite places – the Colosseum. Hopping on the metro once more, we got together and found our tour guide rather quickly, managing to avoid many sketchy gladiators. Once inside, we met our tour guide, who first led us to the understructure of the Colosseum. Though I had been here before, I did not get to see below and above the normal layer the public is open to. It was neat to see the cages and cells where gladiators would have stayed before their fight, and where the animals were, as well as the places slaves worked. A still present underground canal with water for sewage was there, and a few spots where a pulley system had been installed to raise up animals and gladiators for an element of surprise on the wooden stage that would have been above.

Soon, we traveled all the way up to the upper level, where we stood below construction workers on scaffolding, looking out at the site below us. After snapping many shots with friends and listening to the various fights and performances of the gladiators, we were pointed out to see the nearby gladiatorial school. A surprising fact was that gladiators only fought around three times a year, and many less were killed than many assume today.

After a steamy morning, we set off for lunch in a group together, in a restaurant just up the hill. With a set course menu of lasagna, gnocchi, and spinach and cheese ravioli with tomato sauce, it was a delicious sampling. After lunch I tried a sip of Italian coffee, though I found it too strong. Sadly, I forgot to take pictures of this awesome lunch, but here was where we ate, taken as I was walking away:

After lunch, we wandered over to the Palatine Hill. Though we were going to visit the house of Livy, we shortly found it was closed. We were then let free to explore, and several of us wandered the hill’s various gardens and ruins, mostly emperors’ houses and property. Many of the ruins were not blocked off, and we could walk around in them, and even stand on some of the lower walls. It was quite fun, and I enjoyed climbing! The Palatine seemed like an amazing open space to hang. Though it was twelve Euros to enter, and I am not sure us cheapos would go back without being paid for, it has become one of my favorite spots thus far.

After wandering around with intentions to go to Hadrian’s Mausoleum (now Castel St. Angelo), we soon realized we had spent so much time in the gardens we were low on time. Instead, we headed down into the Forum on our way to the Temple of Venus and Rome, sitting at the ruins for a while to snap shots and write in our journals. At the signs of sprinkling and thunder, we headed back to campus to get ready for dinner and catch up on blogging.

That night, a group of us wandered down to Trastevere in search of cheap eats. Looking at menus down various side roads, we came upon a place with great prices, a big menu, and fast service. Happy, I had pesto gnocchi, which was very filling.

After dinner, before heading home, we checked out the piazza in the center that we had been in on Monday. At night it is very social, and we watched a spray paint street artists for a few minutes before heading home on the bus. We were very confident to be traveling around on our own without getting lost, and it was a good day indeed!

*Visit 1 - Santa Maria in Trastevere

2011-05-27T18:07:00.005-04:00

At the end of our first full day, Santa Maria in Trastevere appeared in front of our eyes. Facing a small quaint square with a fountain in the center, it stands in front of a social place day and night. With a large bell tower to the right it stood, golden and colorful mosaic around the top, and bordered in blue and pattern, it seems typical, but grounded in it’s own aged beauty. A faded pediment attests to its age, along with four antiqued and dirtied statues that stand across a balcony-like structure beneath the mosaics.

Late afternoon on tired feet while some sat by the fountain, a few of us wandered into the church out of curiosity. For those of us dressed, we stepped in onto patterned floors and discovered a rather elaborate gem of a space. Intricate with gold, carved wood, and painting after painting, the space seemed to emanate a feeling of royal grandiosity.

When I enter churches, one of the first things I always notice, or make an effort to look at first are the ceilings. Now, after seeing a few variations, Santa Maria seems to have a beautifully worked ceiling just as many other churches do – no lesser or more. Shapes worked together to create a pattern laced with gold and paintings set into them, all along the center nave.

What seemed most beautiful to me was of course the main altar. For such a dark church, the candlelight and golden shine seemed to create an atmosphere just light enough for my camera. Flanked by marble columns and a wide arch, the business of the altarpiece and the surrounding area are almost overwhelming. Not in the sense that I am bothered by it, but rather awe-struck. A coffered ceiling painted and sculpted with figures inside rises over several golden mosaics and paintings. Crowding the walls with narration and color, it creates quite the backdrop for the altar.

Two smaller rooms at the front of the church flank the main centerpiece. Equally crowded, these rooms are more about the paintings than the gold or woodcarving. Every empty space, no matter what shape or size, is colored in with figures of all kinds. Gold borders surround the works, along with text and various small protruding sculptures.

It was many of our first churches, and I must say it created quite the impression. To see every detail was simply impossible, and yet, the overwhelming sense was not negative. The golden gem that is the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere was beautiful like a small, antique locket.

Art Art Art - Wednesday 5/25

2011-05-26T19:04:00.004-04:00

This Wednesday, we only had one official place to go – the Capitoline museums. Featuring several works of ancient art the popes didn’t steal, we wandered around looking for different kinds of statues. Our list consisted of examples we found pious, cute, large, savage, majestic, etc. Many of the works I remembered from studying in Art History.

After this, we set out back to Campo di Fiori, where we had eaten pizza and sandwiches the day before. Grabbing our meals, we set off a short distance to eat outside the French Embassy, where there was some seating around the square in the shade. I remembered being in this square many years ago!

Our feet had never fully recovered from yesterday’s long journey, so many of us returned to the dorms. While Alissa stayed to (smartly) catch up on writing and photos, I went out with two friends to shop. I showed Jordan and Nicole the area around the supermarket, where many shops from all price ranges lined a long main street. We shopped for various shoes and lingerie, and even glanced at a few cheaper clothes shops, as well as outdoor stalls. We were only spotted with rain, thankfully!

When five rounded the corner, we shortly returned to our campus. Everyone changed and met for dinner, going out to meet special friends of Jackie’s who live in Rome and are contemporary artists. Though it is hard to find modern art here in Rome, the artists that partake in non-classical arts have made quite the feat. It is good to see that there is an art market growing here that is not completely marble. We met two artists who owned a joint space of their own, where they work and sell their art together – a rarity. Many artists in Rome often create and show in other’s galleries, but this was not what worked for these two. Francesca, an art-jewelry creator, made some incredible pieces. The other artist, a man whose name I can’t remember currently, was a painter of many styles and subjects. Both of them answered our questions kindly, and enlightened us on inspiration and meaning behind their works. Though neither like commission or take it regularly, their work was amazing! They let us snap some quick photos:

We set out to have dinner with Francesca at a local pizzeria joint, where I once again had margarita pizza. However, following that came a delicious bowl of Tiramisu. Though my photographs make the cream look an atomic yellow, it was truly great! As my first dessert here in Rome, I fully approve.

Catching a tram home, we first were happy to be off our sore feet in an over air conditioned bus, though Dan soon let us know we were going the wrong way. Running off on the next stop, we caught the next tram in the other direction before walking some more, and transferring to the bus home. After a long day I was glad to get into bed, but it was a fun night!

Full Days and Full Stomachs - Tuesday 5/24

2011-05-26T17:26:00.006-04:00

Tuesday was our first full day – and full it was.

We started off the hot morning taking our first ride on the subway, which spat us out right neat the colosseum. Walking past that, and several gladiators (whom I shot Alissa with), we made our way down to the Imperial Forum. Several of the emperors loved to show their power through architecture, and what remains was not a whole lot, but quite beautiful. Poppies littered the floors of the forum, growing between fallen columns and the pieces of the marble floor.

Next up, I revisited the familiar column of Trajan, with St. Peter now on the top. We marveled at more of the forum floors for a while, taking pictures in the sun. However, when we got to the Vittorio Manuel II, known to Italians as “the wedding cake” and other more crude names, much was to be said. One of Mussolini’s big building projects, the hill it is on had to be partially carved out to fit its massive structure. Near the top of many stairs was a tomb of an unknown soldier, with guards and changing shows, similar to that in Washington DC.

We adventured in and around the wedding cake, hugging the cold marble to cool us off before heading out to lunch. We found markets and a pizza place as long as a sandwich shop. There was a square covered in fruit stands and tourist tees, and several streets leading away with several clothes shops. A few of us wandered off after lunch to shop, and I purchased a cute small lacy top for just a few Euros. Many of the street shops here are affordable, similar to street stands in New York.

After lunch, we made out way back towards the wedding cake, meeting at the bottom of the Capitoline hill, at the Campodoglio. Wandering up the stairs, we looked at various statues in the square, and continued on to the Roman Forum.

This was where we spent the rest of our afternoon. Though our energy was waning, and a thunderstorm was slowly crawling our way, we got to listen to the first of the in-site presentations about one of the many forum structures, as well as wander around and take pictures of temple ruins. Many of us sat in the shade for a few minutes, writing in our journals about the space, and what it must have felt like when the buildings were not yet destroyed. The garden where the Vestal Virgins stayed was by far one of the most beautiful spots.

Before dinner, several of us set out to find a local supermarket. After asking around, it was fairly easy to locate and close to campus, where many of us bought snack foods and drinks. Breakfast, we learned, is not a big thing for Europeans. Though Shannon was able to locate orange juice, many of us were left puzzled on what to eat on early mornings that we could make quickly.

Stopping at the dorms to drop our snacks, we headed home to get ready for dinner. Alissa and I gathered a group of people who wanted pasta, and with Jackie, walked up the Spanish steps and around to our restaurant. I passed by my old hotel and a favorite lunch spot of ours from three years ago!

After eating some delicious pesto, many of us could not finish our rich meals, and we asked to take it home. Apparently, I learned, this is a no-no for Italy, and most of Europe. I’m not quite sure why they are ashamed of this, but they are embarrassed for us Americans (hey, I have no shame). Though I shortly discovered they put it in a metal tin I could not use in the microwave, and I had no fork – so alas my leftovers were thrown out. Though the subway shut down on us and we spent a long painful walk getting back (and getting lost), dinner was great, and I spotted some awesome looking shoe stores along the way. More places to bookmark!

*Q&A, but Mostly just Questions

2011-05-26T12:18:00.004-04:00

I have found that though Rome is not a new city for me, I am discovering many new parts about its culture and layout as well as new sites than before. My four days here three years ago were not enough. Though unlabeled museum sculptures and abstract ruins that just seem like some more rocks are bound to lead to confusion, my puzzlement is over something more cultural. The other night after eating dinner out, many of us could not finish our rich plates of pasta. We decided we wanted to take them home to eat later, only to discover that this is a very American thing. Not only Rome, but most of Italy as well as possibly Europe in general sees this action as something akin to, “oh those Americans.” Though we see this as a good thing, the notion is that takehome is actually kind of shameful.

Why? I can’t possibly see anything negative to it, so why is it such a cultural staple of embarrassment? Taking home food is free, it means you can have another meal or part of one without making or buying it, it doesn’t waste, and it’s even a compliment to the restaurant. Though that night we were provided with metal tins and some foil for our meals, and I was quite content, Jackie seemed to be embarrassed for the Romans. Though we tipped well, and received no odd looks from other diners, I wonder why no other country does this.

On the topic, I also wonder why Italians aren’t big on breakfast. When going to the supermarket, there was almost nothing to consider. There was also a lack of apple juice – one of my favorite drinks. Do they not have that either?

I’m not so sure I can answer these questions, though maybe during the rest of our time here I’ll be able to figure it out – we shall see!

*Ekphrasis - The Dying Gaul Warrior

2011-05-25T16:52:00.001-04:00

Lying on the ground, this dying Gaul truly looks as if he has fallen harshly. Every motion of his body reads heavy and weighted, one leg stretched out as the other curls towards him, bending over himself with a heavy hand on one knee. His right arm seems to be just struggling to hold himself up, his wound visible, cut across his side with marble drips running down his skin. His face shows a grimace of pain, mouth snarled in a seeming silent sound of agony. A moustache sits just above his upper lip, and his hair is short and cropped, seemingly mussed and messy, very unlike the clean-shaven and curly-headed Greeks. The only thing he wears is a twisted rope necklace at the base of his neck, the rest of his body spread nude. The veins in his feet seem strained, his body in a twist to the right as he leans over in his pain. At one side lays a sword he has dropped, beneath his arm, and between his legs some kind of horn instrument. The pain pre-death seems to have been captured perfectly in this stunning marble.

*Space and Place - Forum Romanum

2011-05-24T17:39:00.003-04:00

The Forum as a space seems like an oxymoron for me to describe. It’s open, yet constricting, and free yet controlled. Though it seemed much more open in comparison to other forums that we had to look down upon from the street, there was still the feeling that getting up close to the ruins was simply not possible. More places seemed accessible than others however, such as the garden of the Vestal Virgins, which I enjoyed. However, the walk through the forum is still very controlled, or as Sandy put it, “corralled."

Of course, one has to understand excavations and renovations, and that the old architecture can be ruined with simply the oils from our fingers. There is no way to get close – and I still wish I could. I felt many of us, though tired, connected to the forum when we could really get close, but if held back, it was more difficult. It was as if the light at the end of the tunnel was there – and yet you still can’t reach it.

Despite that, my memories of the forum served me well in way of nostalgia. I remembered several structures from my previous visit, though this time instead of abstract marble, I felt as if I connected a bit more since I knew what the buildings were. Though I couldn’t go up and stand with the three columns of the Temple of Castor and Pollux, the nostalgia was fulfilling.

When imagining what the space must have felt like when the buildings were not in ruin, it must have felt much more controlled and crowded than the constriction of fences and paths today, but the comparison was still quite something to imagine.

As an oxymoron, I both couldn’t quite fully connect, but did so with my nostalgia. The open, yet controlled area of the forum still produced awe despite its touristy construction.

For future reads - I will be noting required writing with a *. Other writings will probably be much more picture heavy, jokey, and will outline my days a little more. Ciao! More to come!

Goodbye Home, Hellooooooo Rome

2011-05-23T16:48:00.001-04:00

Starting an early afternoon to a long night, we all gathered at JFK for several hours to chil on Sunday, May 22nd. After gethering outside of security, we made our way to the gate together and hung out some more. Once we boarded the plane, members of our group were scattered about. It was possibly the largest plane I'd ever seen. And only on a flight to Europe (especially Italy), would they tell women to take off their high heels should we all land in water. Can't pop that inflateable slide!

I chose to sit by the window, of course, though I never ended up using it for anything like I thought I would. When sunrise came around, a time I usually photograph out the window, I was still asleep, or trying to sleep. Seated next to a foriegn woman and her daughter (both of which I presumed were Italian, though I cannot say), I was very quiet for most of the trip. I slept through both dinner and breakfast, and though I'm sure I didn't miss much, my goal was to sleep most of the flight for a good rest.

Little did I know that wasn't really going to happen. I spent most of the time half awake (the constant turning on of lights for meals did not help), and crammed sideways into my seat, headphones on the entire time.

When Rome came, everyone looked wiped. Going through customs was easy, passing by the lazy stampers before waiting for our bags, and then our transportation. But really, you know you're in Italy when your "arranged transportation" doesn't show up, and is instead on lunch break. When calling St. Johns, their response could be summed up by "can't you just come now? And make your way over here? So we don't have to do it?" After a while of waiting, they came through, and despite our tired eyes, it was a laugh.

Once all was sorted out and we made it into our rooms, we unpacked, changed, and head out for a walk. I revisited some of the places I'd traveled to three years ago - namely the St. Paolo fountain on top of one of the many hills in Rome, with the Spanish Embassy across the street, where I had taken my friend Katie's photo years ago. Walking around Rome, we tried water from street fountains, navigated streets, and explored churches.

After walking down the hill, we went to a fantastic pizza place, definitely said to be in the top 10 pizza spots in Rome.

I also want to apologize for any spelling errors - the computers in the lab (where I wrote most of this post) as well as my now-changed laptop for Italian internet are all trained to spellcheck Italian, not English! About every word in this blog is wrong...

And now I need to sleep and shower, and leave the girl who is skyping across from me alone. I've been waiting to get into bed for hours! Goodnight all! More adventures to come. And better written posts when I don't feel like I'm going to pass out!

Predictions

2011-05-02T19:43:00.000-04:00

After somewhat of a night’s sleep over the Atlantic, I know I will be tired. We’ll all be drowsy – I can just picture us mumbling, jet lagged and leaning on each other with weary arms. But there is another prevailing feeling that will take up my other half – the kind of excitement that knots in your stomach and makes your feet bounce ever so slightly when you walk. I will be taking in new sights of a familiar city under the brim of a large hat, feeling fresh in my converse despite the beginnings of Italian summer heat, my camera never leaving my shoulder and extra batteries clacking together in the pockets of my dress.

The anxiety of travel is over, the airport behind, and all our voices mingle when we walk. Tastes of conversations litter the air around us, none other than jokes, laughter, and eyes about for the classically handsome Italian men. I may be quiet, or I may be talkative, but I certainly won’t miss the first joke about Paolo. Maybe it’s Alissa, spotting him around a corner, outside a cafe standing alongside a retro colored Vespa. There is pointing and giggling, but he hops on his vehicle to leave. There’s this sudden, palpable tension, like the feeling half of our group wanting to shout out “Paolo!” down the street as if it was his name, just to catch his attention. Dan scolds us lightly as we walk, as we are the vestal virgins, jokingly.

The strap of my purse leaves a red impression on my shoulder, and I fight off sunburn, but I could walk forever if I wanted to. The soles of my feet are ok, and the nostalgia of returning replaces any complaint. I snap candid shots of local strangers and storefronts mixed with ruins and old buildings, the camera clicking in one ear while I hear arising arguments out the other. As Dan and Jackie lead the group through the streets, their words and gestures are spilt over nonsensical details.

Jordy wants to know where the shopping is, and I can almost hear her money wiggling in its confines, eager to exchange hands. During the walk there’s enthusiastic talk of dinner and genuine Italian food, and for someone who doesn’t even like food that much, I’m excited too – after all, I only live on pasta. I resist the urge to flip through my memory card, and chitchat with others, walking along to our next site.

Reflections

2011-05-02T14:23:00.000-04:00

Looking back on my application to the class and program, it was obviously a plead to return to Rome. Italy, pushed as the best place I had ever traveled, was a country I wanted to get back to. Amongst all the cities I had ever visited, both domestic and international, Rome certainly made the top five. All of this still has not changed; of course I still wish to return!

Before going in 2008, I had taken a wealth of classes in high school that prepared me on a level that seemed one step above the average Joe, but after taking Reading Rome, I’d argue a few more layers of both interest and knowledge have me ready to go. What is clear in my essay is my background in art and art history. Going to Rome while in the middle of my survey of western art class was very helpful in understanding the pieces I was learning. I had knowledge of artistic and architectural vocabulary, which only continued to be repeated and built upon after taking more art history and classics courses in college. I could tell anyone the Pantheon had a coffered ceiling, that there was a rotunda on top and it had an oculus where the snow crept through, and that the columns in front of the entryway were Corinthian.

The architecture, however, is not all there is to Rome. Though I was glad to recognize things upon travelling there, I know this time I will see even more. There will be many areas and sites we’ve learned about along our walks, and it will feel good to know them. The purpose of different buildings was something else I was more interested to learn this time around as well. Knowing only structure is knowing only the surface of the building's history. Reading Rome has added many more sites and their histories to my list than just the basic highlights of my art history class.

Reflecting upon the readings in class, Rome from other people’s perspectives is a topic I had never previously divulged in. Not only could I understand what others thought about the city or what activities they chose to partake in, but also views from other centuries. I was aware of the romantic draw to Rome, and the artists who were fond of depicting the ruins in such a light, but I knew nothing of the actual travelers or their stories – the Grand Tour was a concept I had never even heard of.

Travelling with someone other than my parents will also create a different dynamic. Then, I had taken one friend with me, and we loitered around together most of the time. Similarly, I only knew one person when I entered the class, but now I feel as if I can talk to anyone. Travelling with nineteen other people I feel familiar with will be exciting.

I look forward to many new sites, but I feel as if I cannot forget the sites I have seen, and my favorites from before. My entry essay does not mention specific places, but I hope in seeing some of them for the second time, I will be able to absorb much more. When I mentioned in my presentation that our time spent in St. Peter’s Square was more of standing in line and less of observing the surroundings and architecture, it notes that there are things I probably missed my first visit that I might notice now.

Though I came in with a small bank of knowledge about Rome, the layers added through the class have certainly contributed much more. What I had learned before were but a few structures and people from one time period, where as we have stretched out Rome’s timeline to several other eras I had never learned about in conjunction with the ancient city I was familiar with. I feel as if I have completed what I hoped to achieve in my entry essay, and am now only missing the experience of simply being there.

Testing

2011-04-25T23:59:00.000-04:00

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